In King Louis' footsteps
By Tony Watts - Editor - 15/08/2007
If you love a hotel with history seeping out of every wall, then Hartwell House near Aylesbury will almost certainly press your buttons.
Drive up the long avenue towards the house and you can fondly imagine yourself accompanying former occupant Louis XVIII in his carriage, or perhaps another erstwhile resident, Gustave IV exiled King of Sweden. Or imagine yourself even further back in time before the present house was built, to William Peverel son of William the Conqueror – for whom transport was probably a fiery charger! That feeling of privilege is enhanced when, on arrival, staff come out to whisk away your bags and park your car.
The current house was originally built in the early 17th century and has both Jacobean and Georgian features - with outstanding decorative plaster-work and panelling. Of course the house has been further added to over the years by successive owners, so it requires an architectural historian’s eye to detect which generation might have added what wing, window, roof or garden feature to the mélange. But the totality is a delightful interweaving of styles – all neatly restored by the current owners Historic House Hotels.
I particularly liked the wooden carvings adorning the sweeping staircase: recent additions, and many of them witty caricatures of historic figures.
To me one of the greatest pleasures was walking around the extensive gardens with a large lake, home to a fine collection of wildfowl – some of whom were engaged in territorial battles when we were there: it’s quite amusing to see a goose bating a swan – but you do get anxious for its health! While parts were carefully ordered, other areas of the gardens had been allowed to regain a natural feel. The vistas were punctuated by some glorious trees which must surely have seen centuries peacefully slide by since they were seedlings.
Each of the 46 bedrooms is very individual and furnished with prints, pictures and antiques; and where we stayed in the main house the high windows and ceilings give a calming sense of airiness and space. The ambience of luxury continues as you explore the delights of the Spa, complete with sumptuous pool and array of beauty treatments on offer. And dining there is a definite return to the old ways of enjoying a meal out: attentive waiting staff, starched linen and a menu that was traditionally and deliciously French.
It’s never easy relaxing on a quick weekend away – but if you want to take your foot off the pedal and chill out for a day or two away from the hubbub, I can’t imagine a nicer place to do it than here.
The hotel is offering MT readers special Autumn Breaks from 2 September - 10 December 2007. For a one night break for two, to include overnight accommodation in a twin or double bedded room, dinner to the value of £38 pp, cooked breakfast, and use of the Spa, the prices are: Sunday until Thursday £ 300 per room per night; Friday and Saturday £350.00 per person per night. Call 01296 747444 or visit the website below, mentioning the paper.