The meaning of birthstones
26/04/2007
Have you ever wondered what your birthstone is, whether it really means anything - or even where the whole idea of birthstones comes from? According to jewellery expert Chloe Tomasik, they are not just a marketing ploy, but have a long and well documented lineage.
Chloe, who for many years bought and sold antique jewellery in and around the London's famous markets, spoke to the Mature Times about her investigations - and her passion for jewellery:
"As a child my nose was always pressed up against jeweller's windows. I haunted Portobello market which was near where I lived, and with my first Saturday job wages raced down to buy something. After a bit some pieces didn't appeal so much, and I had to sell to buy more and gradually became a dealer.
"I lived for jewellery. I adored the workmanship in the goldwork, the sheen of the fat half pearls in Victorian pieces. Sometimes I would get up in the night and just look and touch what I had bought and sigh with pleasure. I got even more pleasure when I sold the piece - not for the profit as such but because it meant I'd 'bought right'. I had stalls in Portobello market, Camden Passage, Bermondsey and in Gray's Antique Market.
"Over the years I got even more pleasure in finding out about the symbolism of stones and jewellery - which is where I am now. I rarely buy real jewellery now - and can't quite believe I once went out wearing 20 pieces of jewellery!"
So are birthstones just a gimmick, or a bit of superstition?
"No, far from it. Birthstones have been popular for hundreds of years. Originally they were based on the description in the bible (Exodus 28 15-30) of a ceremonial breastplate worn by Moses’ brother Aaron. The stones were carnelian, chrysolite, emerald, turquoise, sapphire, moonstone, jacinth, agate, amethyst, beryl, onyx, and jasper. Twelve stones, one for each of the 12 tribes of Israel. Later these became linked to the 12 months of the year.
"You see, stones in the past were far more than just decoration - they were thought to possess magical, healing and protective powers. For example, pearls could be ground up and drunk to aid beauty, and garnets carried into battle by warriors to prevent haemorrhaging. Sailors, in the belief that acquamarines would protect them from drowning, would sew them into their clothes, and wealthy mothers would tie an emerald around their child’s neck to protect against epilepsy.
"Stones were also believed to affect the wearer, so sapphires, thought to curb lust and aid chastity, were often set in the ceremonial jewels of nuns and clergy.
As science and medicine progressed, many of these beliefs were downgraded as mere superstition - along with many other ancient practices.
"Then in 18th century Poland, it became popular to give new born babies stones dedicated to the month in which they were born. By doing this, it was hoped that the virtues possessed by the gem would protect the child for the future. It has been said that the upsurge in interest in the supposed significance of stones may have been due to the influence of Jews who settled in Poland around this time. Whatever its reason, the custom swept Europe and the traditional birthstone was born.
"However, so many lists of stones came into being, some based on signs of the zodiac, some on the seasons, some on what had been written in the bible, that in the 1930s the Gemmological Association put out a formalised list - which is what most jewellers use today. And of course, some stones such as diamonds which were not on the original list were added .
"Undoubtedly there are some absolutely fascinating stories about stones which have been lost over the years, which is such as shame as this is part of our history. If Mature Times readers have sties of stones handed down to them, or wish to ask questions about stones, please do feel free to contact me."
Chloe will be revealing the secrets behind each birthstone, starting with the Emerald for May.
All enquiries about birthstones please write to Chloe Tomasik at the Mature Times or email jayne.warren@maturetimes.co.uk