Pointers on Poinsettias

24/11/2006

Christmas is on the horizon again, and if you were thinking of buying me anything, please don't be tempted to give me a Poinsettia. I am not a fan of the flame-leafed plants. They are such hard work. Really, I'd be much happier with Roses or Quality Street!

Poinsettias originate from Mexico and were much treasured by the Aztecs who used the red bracts to make a purple-red dye, and the sap for medical purposes. Now there's the irony, the Poinsettia belongs to the family Euphorbiaceae, which some of you probably grow in your gardens - especially the common Euphorbia wulfenii, the sap of which is caustic and causes blistering.

There are mixed views as to whether the Poinsettia is toxic but I would certainly treat it with some caution and keep it away from very young children, and wash my hands after handling it, (as I would after handling most plants).

Although many people think the brightly coloured bits are flowers, they are actually modified leaves known as bracts. As many of you will receive or buy a Poinsettia  as part of your Christmas decorations, you might like to know how to keep it going after Christmas rather than just consigning it to the compost heap once the festivities are over.

In their native Mexico, Poinsettias grow to 1.5 metres (6 ft) high but they don't grow so easily on these chilly shores. But if you like a challenge, start by selecting a plant that has tight green button-like flowers at the centre of the leaves. The flowers will open out later. They like light and some warmth, so give it a spot in indirect sunlight, where the temperature is constant with no draughts or surges of heat which cause leaf drop.

They require a daytime temperature of between 65-70F and night-time temperatures of about 50F. Water only when the soil feels dry to the touch but allow the water to drain away - don't let the plant sit in a saucer of water. Be sure not to over-water, but they do like moist air, so mist regularly.

 

Don’t be tempted to feed with fertiliser while the plants are blooming. Once the flowers are over feed using a balanced fertiliser to encourage new growth. When the leaves eventually fall in about March continue to feed, but cut back to about 8 inches. Water if dry and hopefully by the end of May there should be some re-growth.  

Once re-growth has started is the time to move the plant into a pot about three inches bigger than its present pot. Continue to water and feed about every two weeks. When the weather has warmed up, fear of all frosts have passed (usually June), and night-time temperatures exceed 50F, they can be placed outside.  Be sure to keep it pruned to maintain a healthy bushy plant. Any pruning should be completed before September.

Now, if you want the plant to perform again you will need to control the amount of light it gets from the beginning of October.  Cover the plant to eliminate all light for 14 continuous hours each night.  Either use a black bag tied gently but securely, or cover with a box. Be sure to eliminate all light or this will cause the re-flowering process to stop.

 

Night-time temperatures should be around 60-70F at this time. The plant requires 5-6 hours of sunlight daily from October until December. If you manage to do this over a period of about 10 weeks you should have a flowering Poinsettia in time for next Christmas.

Now you'll see why they are not a favourite of mine. Good luck with yours but I'll settle for a nice easy Amaryllis every time. Happy Christmas to you all.